Day 12

Learned about the market street Rue des Levi's.  Several people gave it rave reviews.

But what I really loved was the nearby Park Monceau.

A genuine gem of a park.  Loads of people were running the perimeter path. Many older folks sitting on the benches lining the paths.  Nannies with children in strollers, a large group of teenage girls practicing cheers, complete with pompoms.  A couple of young teen boys very seriously practicing kickboxing.

I love how every park we have visited with the exception of historical venues and even some of those, have areas for young children to play, mostly very large sandboxes. There was one adorable carousel in Park Monceau running today and one still under covers by the Monceau Metro stop.

Late afternoon ventured out on my own and came across this wonderful building that I was hoping to see.

Two thirds of the way up you can see the lilacs in bloom. Walked down Rue St Denis which can be a little iffy but was a mix of all types of people, lots of wholesale stores along there.
Waited while Ross took a three hour nap to recover from being up at 2a for the NFL draft.  Went to dinner at a time many French eat out.  Many restaurants serve midi, 11a to 2p then close until 7p until 10p or they have after work drinks and small plates from 4p until 7p. We walked in the dark and rain around the corner to what we thought was a Vietnamese restaurant but when we sat down and examined the menu, This restaurant was serving sushi. We were the only customers in the place except for a dad and two children waiting for takeout but our server was so happy to have us there, we stayed.  Glad we did, excellent sushi, shashimi and teriyaki.  Actually some of the best I've ever had.  

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Day 11

Took the train to Chateau Fountainbleu.  Three changes on the Metro and then Gare de Lyon.

Was interesting to see more of France beyond Paris.  Was almost entirely inhabited.  Huge trainyards, commercial areas, lots of car dealerships, etc., many very small houses but very charming.  Interesting peeks into backyards and gardens. 

When we got to the town of Fountainbleu, it wasn't  exactly clear where the bus stop was located, then after about 5 minutes or so a bus finally stopped only long enough to drop off 1 passenger and sped off.  So we decided a 1 1/2 k walk sounded doable.  Liked walking through a lovely town with individual dwellings as well as small apartment areas.  The signs directed us to the far corner of the "forest" surrounding the chateau.  This was were Louis XV hunted stags, deer, bucks and boar in his day.  Had individual packs of dogs for each type of game, different uniforms coordinating with each pack and two rooms in the chateau decorated with paintings and memorabilia of his hunts. So we then hiked or rather wandered (Hansel and Gretel's trail of crumbs crossed my mind at one point) at least another 1/2 K through the forest and then down the length of the Grand Canal until we reached the gardens surrounding the chateau.

Lovely exterior and gorgeous weather again.  The Napoleon exhibit was intriguing.  And intriguing how different sytles were incorporated into the building and decor, from the ancient, the Bourbons, Louis XV, Marie Antoinette, Napoleon and later monarchs.  

I wonder how the many different artists who created beautiful works, if they put as much of their hearts and souls into their work as we do, felt when these works were placed into this environment.  So many, so very much that very little is seen as individual but an overwhelming flourish of color and and pattern and gold.

Rode the now very crowded bus back to the train station where a gentleman inquired of me in French whether this was the train to Paris.

Ross went to Stohrer's, the oldest patisserie in Paris, which is right around the corner from where we are staying and got us sandwiches on baguettes and the absolute best desserts I've ever had!

day 10

Beautiful day of bright blue skies and white high clouds evenually leading to dark stormy looking clouds leading in some chill winds but only a few raindrops.

Spent the morning walking to the Marais visited Marche des Enfants Rouge which resembled North Market in Columbus, Oh in the items offered if not the environs.  Lots of stalls selling food ready to eat mixed with fresh food vendors.  Too early for lunch and walking back passed Arts et Metier, an old cathedral converted to diferent usage.

This museum is very old school in the displays, object after object with cards describing the items, printing machine, looms, scientific equipment, models, clocks, automatons, transportation vehicles....some interactive displays. Very interesting.  Took some photos to appeal to Gary.

Walked back along the river and came across Le Marche des Fleurs. So pretty.  Surprising numbers of shrubs and small trees.  We were hoping for some cover at this time.

Walked back to Les Halles and wandered through the underground mall there.  Incredibly busy.  Went into FNAC, a french bookstore chain.  I swear the store went on for at least a quarter of a mile, never did get to the end, just went on and on and on.  

Came back to the apartment for dinner.  I went down to the little grocery store for a few items, t.p., etc. and stopped at the patisserie for dessert, chocolat gateau and flan aux cherises.

Day 9

Chilly day, cloudy with a few bursts of sun and blue, blue skies.  Walked to Musee D'Orsay through the Tuileries, with a quick stop at Galerie Colbert.

Ita always exciting to walk across

 the Seine.  This bridge has been the only one so far, where we've  seen padlocks on the bridge.   I've  heard that it had become quite a problem, to  the extent that the weight of the locks was damaging the bridges.
Our favorite museum is Musee D'Orsay, the space and the impressionist & post impressionist paintings, the section of Art Deco furniture and today the Henri Rousseau exhibit.  I am becoming more enthralled by Gaugin whereas Ross enjoys Van Gogh and Seurat.

Stopped at another yarn shop on the way back. Got alpaca yarn for another scarf for Ross.  This shop was little like a jumble shop, not chichi at all, just boxes of yarns lined up on shelves along the wall and on a low table/ bench down the middle.  Went back out to shop at C&A for socks when we saw the sun shining on the far wall of the light shaft that our windows look out upon.

Ended by shopping at a small market and a patisserie for supper.  Cucumber, onion, cocktail tomatoes in a olive oil, balsamic, dijon vinaigrette with torn basil, goat cheese and sauteed onions, sausage on a fesh baguette.

day 8

Started out in the sun this morning knowing it would be raining later.  I felt like a packhorse carrying, my purse, camera, water bottle, my umbrella, Ross's umbrella since his made a big lump in his pocket, poor baby....
Took the metro to Monmartre, all the while looking for ways to dispose of our trash,  our young rental agent rather bithely pushed us off when requested that particular information.  Don't  think she really knew that information.
Wandered around for a while just walking the streets, admiring the architecture, the ways people in a city, Paris in particular stay connected to nature with little plantings at every opportunity.

Of course, made our way to Sacre Couer. Amazingly beautiful.

Had a late lunch at Le Village a genuine classic French bistro.  Tiny, handsome wood bar with brass footrails, patterned stone tiled floors, scuffed wood tables. The abosulute best french onion soup ever.

Coming back, got off at the Opera metro stop and window shopped at Place Vendome, Cartier, Piaget, Dior and on and on. Ross's choice for a watch....30,000 euro.

 Ate in again.  such fun comparing the differences in food, shopping, stores.

day 7

Quietly gray and overcast day again.  Visited Pere Lachaise cemetary .  Cemetaries are weirdly lovely places.  I find them very restful.  This one has an intensity that is the antithesis of my favourite cemetary where my parents and Smith grandparents are buried.  That one has massive trees in the middle of Illinois cornfields outside a tiny town just across the Wabash from Indiana.  There is a stillness there, even with the winds in the trees, that I haven't  experienced elsewhere.  Pere Lechaise is very busy, not with people but to the eyes.  Tiny, for the  most part,  temples to the reverence of families.

We walked up and down hillsides on very old cobblestone lanes.  Walked past monuments to history and reverence for the recently departed.

Day 6
Visited the Marche aux Puce Rue Rosiers.  Had a great time there during our last visit.  Lots of little streets full of all kinds of antiques and collectibles, china, silver, toys, glasswares, clothing, you name it.  Some shops were jumbles of stuff, others were elegant collections. Interacted with a young  man whose passion was glass.  Introduced him to Erickson glass and the connection to Bremen.
Ate an Italian restaurant just beside the market and oops  the waiter dropped a bottle of olive oil.  Was vastly more concerned with the mess he made on himself than the large spots on Ross pants or the floor.  And the meal will not be high on my list of recommendations.

On the other hand dinner was one of the best meals I've ever had. We were wandering around trying to find someplace we wanted to eat at, the inexpensive Thai spot we had decided on was closed.  Then  La Cevicheria appeared.  Sat at the bar right in front of the chefs.  Fascinating!  Took a while to be served but so good and beautiful. Great guacamole, Ross had perfectly prepared octopus, with kalamata olives, citron confit, red onions and I had the most beautiful tuna with guacamole, soy sauce, mango, sesame seeds, leche de tigre, coriander along with a rum punch.

The toilette had all these drawings of llamas, on the other wall as well.

Day 5

Went out without my personal map, i.e. Ross for the first time today.  Came back with more, bigger bandages, a beignet stuffed with Nutella, croisant aux aumands, and roule aux chocolat.
Later took the Metro to the left bank.  Beautiful fountain at St. Suplice

They were holding a service when we went in.  The statue of Mary and the infant Jesus standing on a globe is extraordinary. No photos during service, just look up St Suplice Lady Chapel online.  From there we wandered on to Luxembourg Gardens.  Walked and wandered, sat and admired the flowers.  Lots of yellow and the scent of the sweet alysum was delightful.

Many folks had brought McDonalds for lunch. It was packed when we walked by.  Not so much Quick Burger.  We've also seen Subway, KFC, Starbucks and a Donato Italian restaurant.  

Walked

to the Pantheon and on down Ste Germain du Pres in slowly accelerating raindrops.

Day 4

Another sunny warm day.  Big contrast between central Ohioans and Parisians.  In this weather at home I would have seen shorts and many pairs of flip-flops.  Here there were many still in winter coats with wool scarves wrapped around throats.
Walked to Marche Bastille this morning. A mixture of a traditional food market and flea market with mostly new, inexpensive items.

These were our treasures. With lefover baguette and cheese from last night and our sauteed veggies had a delicious lunch.
Had breakfast sitting in the park at Place des Vosges.  Ross found a shop that sold was a patisserie, sushi shop, sold sandwiches and beer, if it had sold pizza as well he'd never shop anywhere else.
Took the metro to the Champs-Elysees and walked down to L'Arc de Triomphe.  The very definition of monumental.

Walked over the river and along the bank to the Eiffel Tower. Along the river are carousels, souvenir venders, stands selling glaces, crepes, even hot dogs. Walked on to the gardens to rest my very sore feet. lots of people sitting on benches, the grass, children running around, groups of students on tours, grandmeres...

And winding our way home on the Rive Gauche we passed acouple of embassies and this Art Deco lovely

Day 3

Gorgeous sunny day, blue, blue skies, light breeze.  Ross went out early and brought back an almond pastry and pour moi, pain au chocolat, delicious with clementine juice.  Walked to Notre Dame.  On the way went thru a covered alley of shops.  Went in a tiny fabric store with lots of delightful little floral prints, very Liberty of London in "modern" colorways.  Just across the alley was a yarn shop, will be going back.  Around the corner on the next street several

 shops selling "love" appliances, etc.  Inadvertantly chose 4 star restaurant for lunch.  Delicious, charming, very nice staff. Ross had steak tartare, frites and I had escalope saumon with sauce l' oiselle and petite vegetables along with some great belgium beer.

 After lunch walked around Ile Ste Louis some more, wandered along the Seine to Jardin les Plantes.  People on every bench, on the parapets, in the grass. A couple of sunbathers, one youngish man down to his speedos and a baseball cap.  Sat and watched people several times.  Crossing one of the bridges we looked down along the Seine and saw two probably Japanese couples having their wedding photographs taken.

Day 2

Its fascinating jumping inti another country, another language, other customs.  where to head for la toilette and which brown sign to follow that leads to the RER.

The views on the train don't match my inner vision of Paris. 

After addressing a few challenges at the apartment, like not being able to unlock the door until we had tried at least a dozen or more tries....watched a commercial being filmed in the street right in front if our building, pretty blond model in Daisy Dulkes, picture hat, midi lenghth lace sweater, white crop top, along with the requisite high heels, two pomeranians and a stuffed fox with a scarf.  Picked up baguette sandwiches, tart au citron and a custard tarte with strawberries and a mountain of whipped cream transported in a very carefuly folded sheet of paper in an almost pyramidal shape.

the door to our apartment.

Day one

Got to the airport and discovered our flight was cancelled.  Instead of a late lunch at Rick Bayless' restaurant we flew into Newark four hours after we planned on leaving.  And much tighter accommodations on the plane.  Had our first views of very tiny Statue of Liberty and the new World Trade Center.